Sunday, June 23, 2019

Greenwich Mean Time

From Charlton House (1) we caught a city bus (dotted line) down to the top of Greenwich Park.

Our objective was birds (2) ...

... and some of the other spectacular 17th-century buildings in Greenwich. This, for instance, is the Old Royal Naval College designed by Christopher Wren in the 17th century, with the "Queen's House" designed by Inigo Jones for Queen Anne of Denmark in the center, and the 17th-century Royal Observatory just visible in the background:
The above photo was taken at the end of our journey, across the Thames on the Isle of Dogs (7). Also visible at the top of the Royal Observatory hill is a gift from the Canadian people (3):
General Wolfe Statue
Here is another view of the Queen's House from the top of the Royal Observatory hill (3):
We stopped for a snack part way down the hill:
You have to pay for entry if you want to get your photo taken at the prime meridian line at the Royal Observatory, but after some online sleuthing, we located another (free) prime meridian line at the bottom of the hill (4):



The Queen's House (5) is now an art museum:
Queen Elizabeth I Armada Portrait (Drake version)
But the house's (internal) design is also striking:


Two identical fireplaces link Charlton House to the Queen's House. We understand there is debate about who copied whom, but Charlton House was built first. Can you tell which is which?


  From the Queen's House we walked past the Old Royal Naval College ...

... and finally made it to the 19th century and the Cutty Sark, once the world's fastest tea clipper (6):




From there we walked under the Thames ...

The Isle of Dogs (7)


Sunday, June 9, 2019

Charlton House

Last Friday, at the end of S's final half-term break in England, we travelled to one of Greenwich's lesser known attractions.

Built between 1607-1612 on the orders of King James I for Sir Adam Newton, Charlton House is a fine example of a Jacobean country house. The draw for us, however, was not the architecture or the relative absence of people, but the place of Charlton House in two notable scenes in the life and autobiography of Lady Anne (Murray) Halkett.

The "oldest" Mulberry tree in England
As at Dunfermline, we found that our lady’s reputation preceded us, which made for another interesting experience in oral history: This time we were treated to two different highly-romanticized accounts of Anne Murray’s clandestine engagement with a love-struck Thomas Howard. (More on the less-romanticized version in scene 1 below.)

Anne's father, Sir Thomas Murray, may have known Sir Adam Newton well because both men came to England from Scotland with King James, and served in the royal courts as tutors to the king’s two sons, Henry and Charles.

Original Chapel Door
We don’t know anything more about the relationship between the Murray and Newton families, but in 1640 Sir Adam’s son Henry Newton married Sir Thomas’s daughter and Anne’s sister, Elizabeth. By this time, Sir Thomas (d. 1623) and Sir Adam (d. 1630) were long gone, and the English civil war was on the horizon.

Scene 1: Blind Date in the Cellars

Fast forward to 1644 and the setting of our scene 1: King Charles has retreated to Oxford; Anne’s brother-in-law, Henry Newton, is in hiding for supporting the Royalist cause; and twenty-two-year-old Anne, her sister, Elizabeth, and their mother, Jane Murray, are living together at Charlton House. They are joined by Anne Murray’s good friend, Anne Howard, daughter of Baron Edward Howard of Escrick, a Parliamentarian who was instrumental in helping the Murray women get permission to keep living at Charlton House after the Newton property had been claimed by Parliament.

Long Hall Fireplace
To make a long story short, Baron Howard’s son, Thomas, falls in love with Anne, proposes, is rebuffed, threatens to convert to Catholicism and join a monastery, which arouses Anne’s sympathy. Anne eventually promises not to marry anyone before Thomas does. Thomas takes Anne’s “maybe” as a “yes,” but when Anne’s mother hears about it she is NOT PLEASED, apparently because Anne was not well enough off to make a good match for the son of her benefactor. Anne’s mother threatens to cut off all ties with Anne if ever she sets eyes on Thomas again. Not to be deterred, Thomas makes a final visit to Charlton house before sailing to France. He is mistaken for Henry Newton, beaten and left unconscious, which again arouses Anne’s sympathy. She agrees to meet Thomas—not in the summer house, as he proposed ...
Inigo Jones designed Summer House, until recently re-purposed as a public toilet
... but in the cellars. And, to keep her word to her mother, she insists on meeting him blindfolded. (For more detail, see pp. 3-19 in Anne Halkett’s autobiography.)

In the summer of 1646, two years after Thomas professed his undying love, Anne is again at Charlton House when she learns that Thomas has married someone else.

Since Anne was concerned about the summer house’s proximity to her mother’s rooms, we speculated that they were located on the second floor, below the long hall:
The Long Hall, rebuilt after the north side of the house was damaged by a bomb in WWII
Because the north wing of the second floor is now used as offices, we didn't get to view its rooms, but the staff at Charlton House kindly offered to let us see the cellars:

Scene 2: A Wedding “in my brother Newton’s Closet”

Original Staircase
Anne Murray’s friendship with Anne Howard apparently suffered little from the one Anne’s engagement to the other Anne’s brother. Anne Howard invited Anne Murray to Naworth Castle in September 1649, where she stayed until June 1650. There she had another courtship experience, this time involving a scheming Anglican clergyman-in-exile who was chaplain to the Naworth household. (See pp. 31 and following in the Autobiography.)

In June 1650 Anne Murray went to Scotland, where she met and became engaged to a widower from Dunfermline by the name of Sir James Halkett. In September 1654, she returned to London to set her financial affairs in order so that she could get married. This took almost two years. The wedding finally took place on 2 March 1656, outside London in Charlton House. This is how Halkett described the event:
“Upon Satturday the first of March, 1655-6, Sr James and I wentt to Charleton, and tooke with us Mr. Gaile, who was chaplaine to the Countese of Devonshire, who preached (as hee some times used to doe) att the church the next day, and affter super hee maried us in my brother Newton’s closett, none knowing of itt in the family or beeing presentt butt my brother and sister and Mr. Neale.” (p. 137)
Salon Fireplace Carving
The reason the marriage took place at Charlton House is probably because Anne wanted to be married by a proper Anglican clergyman. Religious marriages were forbidden during the Interregnum, so getting Mr. Gaile would have involved a certain amount of string-pulling and privacy, as he could have gotten in trouble for performing marriages. Mr. Gaile was chaplain to Halkett’s godmother, the Countess of Devonshire, the façade of whose house we saw at Leicester. Halkett says that a sermon preached by Mr. Gaile at St. James Palace in 1644 was what first led her to make prayer for the king a special part of her daily devotional routine, so he seems to have been a significant figure for her.

Of course, we went looking for Henry Newton’s closet. I took a photo of the fireplace in the office now identified as the Newton Room:

Unfortunately, the interior rooms of the house have been changed since Halkett’s day:

And no one seems to know who slept where in the mid-17th century.
Charlton House from the East, with Ha-ha
Credits: As you can probably tell, some of the wording as well as much of the detail comes from our resident Halkett expert. The mistakes and over-simplifications are my own.

Monday, June 3, 2019

"Stupidest" Swan Cygnets


We arrived in time to watch the newly-hatched brood of cygnets go for a first (??) swim. It should be obvious from the video why the swans responsible for this nest were dubbed "The Stupidest":
We hope they survive on such a busy stretch of the Cam!

Saturday, June 1, 2019

Easter Excursion Day 4 - Yorkshire Dales & Beatrix Potter Reprise

After a genuine English Breakfast ...

... We set out for home, opting for a route that took us through the Yorkshire Dales again, instead of through several genuine, but rather large English cities. This "highway" was slightly less slow than our previous Yorkshire Dales excursion, and we enjoyed our lunch break at Aysgarth Falls:

We had the path through the woods mostly to ourselves:

Since a walk in the woods is a good time for reflection on other things, I may as well admit that despite our distaste for the Lake's commercial, over-populated feel, tourist traps sometimes exist for a reason. Though unpleasant in the moment, our day in the "Lakes" did more to prompt new and stimulating avenues of thought than our more pleasant outings in Yorkshire.

Still checked out from the library, for example, is the (decoded) Journal of Beatrix Potter, as well as the National Trust's Beatrix Potter (1866-1943): The Artist and Her World. The lavishly illustrated second volume has helped me appreciate Beatrix Potter's children's book illustrations as serious art, and led me to admire the industry and skill of the author, artist, sheep-breeder, scientist, and conservationist:
“Her stories began as picture letters for real children; they ended as tributes to real animals. In the years between she painted and wrote to please herself. ‘The more spontaneous the pleasure – the more happy the result. I cannot work to order; and when I had nothing to say I had the sense to stop.’” (68). 
Still, if we ever have the chance to vacation in England again, it will be Yorkshire not the Lake District that makes it on our list of places to settle into.
A cow-free public footpath in Yorkshire Dales

Easter Excursion Day 3 - Wisdom Sits in Places

The scenes that inspired the imaginations of such luminaries as William Wordsworth, Beatrix Potter, and Arthur Ransome left us underwhelmed. We would probably have preferred the more desolate Yorkshire Dales and the wilds around Hadrian’s Wall to England’s most mountainous region anyway, but thanks to the Lake District’s celebrity authors, the place is now crawling with people—and we generally shun tourist destinations. Part of the problem was that we spent most of the day trying to avoid scratching the sides of our rental car as we hurried down narrow one-way lanes with two-way traffic, alternating between Google Maps and our road atlas, getting lost more than once in the process.

Our afternoon’s ordeal was locating a place to view the “Wild Cat” Island on Coniston Water that features in Arthur Ransome’s Swallows and Amazons:

On the left, the Old Man of Coniston:

Pictures taken, we straggled down to the genuine British Royal Oak Pub in Spark Bridge where I had booked a room for the night. There we left our navigator to take some much-needed rest, ventured out for a stroll, and discovered that the beauty of the scenery sinks in when you walk around in it—preferably off the beaten path.


If we had spent more time in the Lake District, we may have found out the easy way that the existence of a public bridle path does not mean it is necessarily safe to walk on. But enter we did, being careful to shut the gate behind us to prevent the egress of the curious cows in the pasture within:

Heading toward an outcropping of flint rock:

How does this selfie thing work?

A shadow selfie works better:

On our return, we discovered that the cows who had at first acknowledged us warily, now seemed prepared to prevent our escape, with two cows stationed at the gate ...

... and another group bunched together, ruminating nervously as we approached. To be safe, we climbed a nearby hillock where I stood and faced the herd and uttered my most menacing Moo. When that did not have the desired effect, we retreated nonchalantly to a corner of the pasture, with the cows, more curious than anything, hot on our trail:

Over one wall, a bog, over the other, a muddy sheep pasture:

Eventually, we climbed along the wall and made our escape. How long the cows stayed at their posts in the corner of the pasture is anyone’s guess:

We made our way back to the Royal Oak for a genuine British pub supper:

Bangers and Mash for me:

s. actually ate (most of) her French fries!